Breaking the Ice: Cool Alaska Cruising
by Nitya Ramanan

In 1986, Alaska's 76-mile-long Hubbard Glacier, with an ice face six-miles wide, made history by advancing several hundred feet in just a few weeks. The glacier's snout overran a small island and blocked the entrance to Russell Fjord, trapping seals inside and forming a huge freshwater lake. The fishermen of Yakutat Bay, where Hubbard Glacier lives, found plenty of work that summer as they ferried curious reporters to and from the glacier.

Hubbard Glacier is just one element of the inexhaustible reserve of natural wonders that Alaska has in store for the casual and the discerning cruise-goer. Blue glaciers towering over wintry bays strewn with icebergs, waters teeming with seabirds and otter, historic gold-rush towns, ancient villages displaying the Tlingit Indian culture, and wildlife sanctuaries abounding in moose and black bears are only a smattering of the charisma that nature has imparted to this land.

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Although there is no single way to get the best of Alaska, there is plenty that can be enjoyed on a cruise, standing on the deck of some solid ship heading straight into the icy depths of this great land. Cruises through the Gulf of Alaska and Inside Passage follow two breathtaking routes that sail past an array of destinations that bring alive some of the most colorful and amazing sights in the "Great Land" or "Aleyska." Celebrity, Holland America, Royal Caribbean International, and Carnival Cruise Lines all offer the opportunity to explore Alaska on a variety of itineraries that cover these two routes.

The Inside Passage, which winds along the coast from Vancouver, British Columbia to historic Skagway (once the jumping-off point for Klondike gold rush prospectors in the 1890s), is a 1,000-mile stretch of water that courses along spectacular scenery, majestic wildlife, and living history. This waterway is a lifeline in two senses--it not only connects the towns and villages along this stretch of Alaska's coast but is also home to whales, sea lions, and nearly 100 species of mammals. Inside Passage itineraries afford a sampling of Alaska with the convenience of embarking and disembarking at the same port. Beginning in Vancouver, these cruises sail past locales like Juneau (Alaska's cosmopolitan capital), Haines (resplendent with the handcrafted artistry of the Tlingit Indians), Hubbard Glacier, and Ketchikan (ancestral home of Alaska's Tlingit Indians), before looping back to Vancouver.

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The glacier route, or Gulf of Alaska, itineraries cover more ports, delve deeper along the Alaskan coast, and allow for opportunities to explore the countryside through several shore excursions. As these cruises wind northward from Vancouver to Seward or vice versa, ports of call like the Russian American town of Sitka and the sculpted ice masses in Glacier Bay will prove both an amazing and awe-inspiring feast to the eyes. Glacier Bay, an astounding witness to the Ice Age, was first created by snow that fell thousands of years ago. Sixteen huge glaciers converge here; giant chunks of ice break away and plunge forth to form fledgling icebergs in the deep-blue water surrounded by an environment lush with forests of spruce, alder, and cottonwood. Here, denizens of the wild like the humpback whale and the bald eagle rove uninhibitedly.

The glacier route is also where spectacular views of College Fjord in scenic Prince William Sound can be enjoyed. Carved by ancient glaciers from the Pleistocene Epoch, the fjord's steep sea cliffs rise above the water and are covered with dense stands of giant trees. The area is a popular kayaking spot, as well as a haven for a variety of marine and land mammals, and shorebirds and waterfowl.

Tracy Arm--a narrow and winding inlet where impressive cliffs rise 3,500 feet from the sea surrounded by glaciers and an abundance of wildlife--is another irresistible attraction that one encounters along this route. Cruising through Tracy Arm, one has the opportunity to revel in views of Sawyer Glacier calving in an impressive display of cascading ice and roaring thunder.

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Along with these fascinating sights, both routes offer some exceptional options for shore excursions. Travelers sailing the Inside Passage can tour Juneau on foot, ride a jet boat through glacial waters of the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve in Haines, dare to sea kayak in Ketchikan, or ride aboard the historic White Pass and Yukon Scenic Railway. Adventurers coasting along the glacier route also have lots to explore. From Anchorage, trips into the heart of Alaska abound: Guided tours of Denali National Park, home to caribou, grizzly bears, moose and golden eagles, and a glimpse of Mt. McKinley (North America's tallest peak), as well as a gold mining tour in Fairbanks offer a close-up view of the history and making of this majestic land.

With so many options for a fantastic vacation, how you get to know Alaska is a choice that is yours to make. But whatever way you see it--ensconced in the lavish interiors of your suite or on deck with the wind in your hair and the mist on your skin--it's sure to be a memory you will always cherish.